http://plamo.outthere.info/forum/ Fri, 03 Jul 2009 12:14:54 +0800 MyBB http://plamo.outthere.info/forum/showthread.php?tid=6217 Fri, 03 Jul 2009 10:41:47 +0800 http://plamo.outthere.info/forum/showthread.php?tid=6217

And the winner issssssssss

Jonkokyan for RX-93-V-2 Hi V Gundam

ALL THE WAY FROM CANADA!

Your prize for this month isssssssssss

HG GN-004 Gundam Nadleeh


&

Trumpeter Hobby Mini Razor Saw



Please check your email ]]>

And the winner issssssssss

Jonkokyan for RX-93-V-2 Hi V Gundam

ALL THE WAY FROM CANADA!

Your prize for this month isssssssssss

HG GN-004 Gundam Nadleeh


&

Trumpeter Hobby Mini Razor Saw



Please check your email ]]> http://plamo.outthere.info/forum/showthread.php?tid=6216 Fri, 03 Jul 2009 09:15:18 +0800 http://plamo.outthere.info/forum/showthread.php?tid=6216

Tools



1. A mini-drill stand (Deeco) - The drill can be used separately and is by far very precise.

2. Plastic Separator - I got two of these, one included a kit, the other as a Dengeki freebie. Used to pry plastic loose without damaging them.

3. Hasegawa Etching Saws - for those refined cutting needs.

4. Trumpeter Rivet Maker (Lil's) - for making even rivet holes. Used specifically for scale models like planes and tanks, but I'm thinking VF-25J.

5. Rulers - I got a 12-inch clear and a 6-inch SS, as well as a 1-meter SS. Great for cutting pla plates.

6. Protractor - you'll never know when you'll need one, and I did, when making those retractable wings for the Impaler.

7. Mini-Router/Drill - Handy for most drilling and reshaping, but not that precise (at least this one isn't)

8. Side Cutters - The Yellow one (with cap) is handy for cutting thick plastics, the black one with red accents is handy for cutting wires. Both are from Deeco and are less than 50 kesos each. The smaller one is from Alexan, and is made of chromed steel (unlike the other two). This little devil is PERFECT for cutting those nasty nubs FLUSH, that I don;t even need my knife to trim the excess away, making sanding much easier. You can even use this to cut directly from the tree without that nasty overcut damage that eats INTO the plastic (which I used to get from the Tamiya green basic cutter regardless of what I do).

9. Compass - I got cheap ones and fitted one with the sharp needle of the other, for cutting circular shapes.

10. Mini Screw Drivers - These two were part of the Tamiya Basic I got years ago when I was still collecting and racing mini 4X4s.

11. File - I got a few of these (industrial types even), but I find the orange Tamiya basic the handiest of the bunch.

12. Tweezers - 'Nuff said.

13. Pin Vise - Sure, a drill is handy, but a pin vise is better and more precise in drilling those holes for metallic beads, or for fitting modifications.

14. Hobby/Design Knives - I got a few of these, but these two are my favorites. I forgot what brand they are but you can look for them at National Bookstore.

15. Tamiya Saw - for general purpose cutting.

16. Tajima Plastic Cutter - Cuts through thick pla plates like a hot knife through butter (I'm exaggerating, of course). Doubles as a scribing tool.

17. Standard Cutters - General purpose.

18. Scissors - for cutting thin pla plates.

19. Long nose Pliers - For getting those stuck plastic in crevices, and for holding a part for quick painting.

Brushes and paints and other stuff.



1. Tamiya Enamel Thinner

2. Tamiya Extra Thin Cement

3. Tamiya Acrylic Paints

4. Tamiya Acrylic Thinner

5. Tamiya Enamel Paints

6. Rotring 0.3 Technical Pen (planning to get a 0.2 and 0.1 as well)

7. Thin brushes for detailing - I usually try out different brands, and realized that even the cheaper sables are good enough.

8. Broad brushes - got these at National Bookstore CHEAP.

9. an old tooth brush for general cleaning, especially after stripping paint off plastics.

10. A standard paint brush, for dusting and general cleaning.


Materials and other stuff



1. Goggles (UBL) - to keep those nasty plastic dust away from your eyes

2. Sheet Magnifier (UBL) - for high detail work. I'm gonna rig this as a desktop attachment.

3. Table top magnifying glass - general purpose.

4. Plastic Beams - I stock up on these, from 1mm to 3 mm square and 3mm and 8mm round clear pipes. The square beams are perfect for scratch-building parts, along with,

5. Pla Plates - of various thickness. I usually have 0.3mm and 1.0mm (shown), but I've recently acquired a 0.5mm which is perfect for all around applications.]]>

Tools



1. A mini-drill stand (Deeco) - The drill can be used separately and is by far very precise.

2. Plastic Separator - I got two of these, one included a kit, the other as a Dengeki freebie. Used to pry plastic loose without damaging them.

3. Hasegawa Etching Saws - for those refined cutting needs.

4. Trumpeter Rivet Maker (Lil's) - for making even rivet holes. Used specifically for scale models like planes and tanks, but I'm thinking VF-25J.

5. Rulers - I got a 12-inch clear and a 6-inch SS, as well as a 1-meter SS. Great for cutting pla plates.

6. Protractor - you'll never know when you'll need one, and I did, when making those retractable wings for the Impaler.

7. Mini-Router/Drill - Handy for most drilling and reshaping, but not that precise (at least this one isn't)

8. Side Cutters - The Yellow one (with cap) is handy for cutting thick plastics, the black one with red accents is handy for cutting wires. Both are from Deeco and are less than 50 kesos each. The smaller one is from Alexan, and is made of chromed steel (unlike the other two). This little devil is PERFECT for cutting those nasty nubs FLUSH, that I don;t even need my knife to trim the excess away, making sanding much easier. You can even use this to cut directly from the tree without that nasty overcut damage that eats INTO the plastic (which I used to get from the Tamiya green basic cutter regardless of what I do).

9. Compass - I got cheap ones and fitted one with the sharp needle of the other, for cutting circular shapes.

10. Mini Screw Drivers - These two were part of the Tamiya Basic I got years ago when I was still collecting and racing mini 4X4s.

11. File - I got a few of these (industrial types even), but I find the orange Tamiya basic the handiest of the bunch.

12. Tweezers - 'Nuff said.

13. Pin Vise - Sure, a drill is handy, but a pin vise is better and more precise in drilling those holes for metallic beads, or for fitting modifications.

14. Hobby/Design Knives - I got a few of these, but these two are my favorites. I forgot what brand they are but you can look for them at National Bookstore.

15. Tamiya Saw - for general purpose cutting.

16. Tajima Plastic Cutter - Cuts through thick pla plates like a hot knife through butter (I'm exaggerating, of course). Doubles as a scribing tool.

17. Standard Cutters - General purpose.

18. Scissors - for cutting thin pla plates.

19. Long nose Pliers - For getting those stuck plastic in crevices, and for holding a part for quick painting.

Brushes and paints and other stuff.



1. Tamiya Enamel Thinner

2. Tamiya Extra Thin Cement

3. Tamiya Acrylic Paints

4. Tamiya Acrylic Thinner

5. Tamiya Enamel Paints

6. Rotring 0.3 Technical Pen (planning to get a 0.2 and 0.1 as well)

7. Thin brushes for detailing - I usually try out different brands, and realized that even the cheaper sables are good enough.

8. Broad brushes - got these at National Bookstore CHEAP.

9. an old tooth brush for general cleaning, especially after stripping paint off plastics.

10. A standard paint brush, for dusting and general cleaning.


Materials and other stuff



1. Goggles (UBL) - to keep those nasty plastic dust away from your eyes

2. Sheet Magnifier (UBL) - for high detail work. I'm gonna rig this as a desktop attachment.

3. Table top magnifying glass - general purpose.

4. Plastic Beams - I stock up on these, from 1mm to 3 mm square and 3mm and 8mm round clear pipes. The square beams are perfect for scratch-building parts, along with,

5. Pla Plates - of various thickness. I usually have 0.3mm and 1.0mm (shown), but I've recently acquired a 0.5mm which is perfect for all around applications.]]> http://plamo.outthere.info/forum/showthread.php?tid=6215 Fri, 03 Jul 2009 00:25:12 +0800 http://plamo.outthere.info/forum/showthread.php?tid=6215
1) My Seiko watch given to me by my fiancee was badly scratched, hit against a railing, It was so badly scratched that I couldn't see the number 7 on the hour marking. Solution?
- I tried industrial thinner. No can do . It wasn't paint residue. I was really sian because it's a new watch and has sentimental value.
- I thought no choice but got to send for polishing or not have to change the glass (might as well buy a new watch if glass got to be replaced.
- Then the thought dawned on me. I polished scratches off canopies on aircraft before. Maybe I can do the same.
- Whipped out 800 , 1200, 1500, 2000, then tamiya coarse, fine then finish. Good as new. But I didn't work by 800 or 1200 well so still very faint scratches are left behind but if I don't stare too hard, it looks as good as new.

I dun think I am silly enough to use future on my watch for the extra shine. Though there was a passing thought.

2) Renovating my van and workspace, last time will find things that fit etc. Now cannot fit , cannot find, too expensive, mod loh . No problems, putty , sand cut, mask paint.]]>
1) My Seiko watch given to me by my fiancee was badly scratched, hit against a railing, It was so badly scratched that I couldn't see the number 7 on the hour marking. Solution?
- I tried industrial thinner. No can do . It wasn't paint residue. I was really sian because it's a new watch and has sentimental value.
- I thought no choice but got to send for polishing or not have to change the glass (might as well buy a new watch if glass got to be replaced.
- Then the thought dawned on me. I polished scratches off canopies on aircraft before. Maybe I can do the same.
- Whipped out 800 , 1200, 1500, 2000, then tamiya coarse, fine then finish. Good as new. But I didn't work by 800 or 1200 well so still very faint scratches are left behind but if I don't stare too hard, it looks as good as new.

I dun think I am silly enough to use future on my watch for the extra shine. Though there was a passing thought.

2) Renovating my van and workspace, last time will find things that fit etc. Now cannot fit , cannot find, too expensive, mod loh . No problems, putty , sand cut, mask paint.]]> http://plamo.outthere.info/forum/showthread.php?tid=6214 Thu, 02 Jul 2009 19:59:56 +0800 http://plamo.outthere.info/forum/showthread.php?tid=6214
Athena


Sorry for the lousy post n dust. Been standing in my workshop for quite some time...

---

ok, a little action pose:

---

Sharing:

This is a kit done in the MKII GB.

Target to achieve:

First, i need to give credit to "__________________________". Basically, the color of this kit is almost 100% following the Dengeki Hobby that i have. Trying to achieve the kind of pastel dark blue in the magazine. In the end, i would say it's 80% similar to it. It's so much difficult to follow exactly the color i want due to the base white i had, which is quite inconsistent.

Also used tons of metal parts! Really happy with it, except it cost me a bum!

Pastel color with shinny Metal, it's the kind of effect this Gb is all about: Computer 3D Graphic finishing.

As for the Finishing, the flat coat i had is almost to the borderline of becoming silvering ady. Very light scratch will have visible scratch marks. However, the final finishing is almost rubber-like, Something similar to GFF.

Overall, a very fun build ^_^

C & C welcome!]]>
Athena


Sorry for the lousy post n dust. Been standing in my workshop for quite some time...

---

ok, a little action pose:

---

Sharing:

This is a kit done in the MKII GB.

Target to achieve:

First, i need to give credit to "__________________________". Basically, the color of this kit is almost 100% following the Dengeki Hobby that i have. Trying to achieve the kind of pastel dark blue in the magazine. In the end, i would say it's 80% similar to it. It's so much difficult to follow exactly the color i want due to the base white i had, which is quite inconsistent.

Also used tons of metal parts! Really happy with it, except it cost me a bum!

Pastel color with shinny Metal, it's the kind of effect this Gb is all about: Computer 3D Graphic finishing.

As for the Finishing, the flat coat i had is almost to the borderline of becoming silvering ady. Very light scratch will have visible scratch marks. However, the final finishing is almost rubber-like, Something similar to GFF.

Overall, a very fun build ^_^

C & C welcome!]]> http://plamo.outthere.info/forum/showthread.php?tid=6213 Thu, 02 Jul 2009 15:53:01 +0800 http://plamo.outthere.info/forum/showthread.php?tid=6213
Box Art:


Started work last week and progress has been rather slow, there are some very tedious parts like the engine:


1st time trying out Future and I must say that its very very good! It produces a very nice shine on the canopy. Futhermore, it smells damn nice, smells of fresh lemon. Seriously, I think i might get addicted to this stuff.


Another product i would like to recommend is this.

Its just super glue/ CA glue but filled in a bottle and can be applied like the old school correction fluid. It allows very precise application to the parts. Bought this at Daiso last week, some of you may find it abit pricey, but its a good investment for me.

Progress thus far:

What i enjoyed most is that the kit comes with sunk panel lines and no need to rescribe the panel lines. However, the fitting of the parts is quite bad. As shown below,


Is this common among aircraft kits? Or only for Academy ones?
Anyway C & C are most welcomed!]]>
Box Art:


Started work last week and progress has been rather slow, there are some very tedious parts like the engine:


1st time trying out Future and I must say that its very very good! It produces a very nice shine on the canopy. Futhermore, it smells damn nice, smells of fresh lemon. Seriously, I think i might get addicted to this stuff.


Another product i would like to recommend is this.

Its just super glue/ CA glue but filled in a bottle and can be applied like the old school correction fluid. It allows very precise application to the parts. Bought this at Daiso last week, some of you may find it abit pricey, but its a good investment for me.

Progress thus far:

What i enjoyed most is that the kit comes with sunk panel lines and no need to rescribe the panel lines. However, the fitting of the parts is quite bad. As shown below,


Is this common among aircraft kits? Or only for Academy ones?
Anyway C & C are most welcomed!]]> http://plamo.outthere.info/forum/showthread.php?tid=6212 Thu, 02 Jul 2009 02:14:45 +0800 http://plamo.outthere.info/forum/showthread.php?tid=6212 I thought I should get myself started with some work and SD is usually fun to build in between bigger kits... it's like an intermission. So I grabbed this guy (was ding donging a while cos I wanted to work on 00+riser SD too) Anyway.. I guess you can really go mental if you put too much modding into SD which I try not to get too carried away, so I've kept this one simple otherwise I might never finish. I didn't manage to take much WIP pic but the pics should explain much.. so here goes..


All the parts are ready here. Glancing through... I have modified the torso, the hip, gave him thighs and biceps. Didn't bothered with neck cos the collar of the armor is in the way.. as well the shoulder because there isn't much space around the inside of the torso.


Here I've separated the torso and packed a ball joint under a ton of epoxy to secure it in place. Then the other end of ball joint connects to upper torso. Need to as well leave space for the waist to travel when bent.


The left red box is generally where I saw off the arm to add an elbow and I cut out the original ball joint cap (right red box) and made..


The thigh and with Kotobukiya part for joint as knee. Saved myself 2 ball joints here


not much articulation because I didn't want to shave away too much plastic... might look weird


I sawed off the ball joint from here (red box), drilled a hole and made a joint to the hip.


The arm and elbow...


Bends around now..

---

Action photo teaser..Rikuson is balling and charging up a fist for whoop ass


from another angle..


Filled the cavity, a must do for BB. 1 way to save epoxy is to cut unwanted sprue into small pieces, pack them into the cavity and secure them down with some glue over it, then fill up with epoxy.

Apart from that, the tip of the lance was sharpened and cavity filled as well...

That'll be all for now! Comments welcome as usual and take care! ]]> I thought I should get myself started with some work and SD is usually fun to build in between bigger kits... it's like an intermission. So I grabbed this guy (was ding donging a while cos I wanted to work on 00+riser SD too) Anyway.. I guess you can really go mental if you put too much modding into SD which I try not to get too carried away, so I've kept this one simple otherwise I might never finish. I didn't manage to take much WIP pic but the pics should explain much.. so here goes..


All the parts are ready here. Glancing through... I have modified the torso, the hip, gave him thighs and biceps. Didn't bothered with neck cos the collar of the armor is in the way.. as well the shoulder because there isn't much space around the inside of the torso.


Here I've separated the torso and packed a ball joint under a ton of epoxy to secure it in place. Then the other end of ball joint connects to upper torso. Need to as well leave space for the waist to travel when bent.


The left red box is generally where I saw off the arm to add an elbow and I cut out the original ball joint cap (right red box) and made..


The thigh and with Kotobukiya part for joint as knee. Saved myself 2 ball joints here


not much articulation because I didn't want to shave away too much plastic... might look weird


I sawed off the ball joint from here (red box), drilled a hole and made a joint to the hip.


The arm and elbow...


Bends around now..

---

Action photo teaser..Rikuson is balling and charging up a fist for whoop ass


from another angle..


Filled the cavity, a must do for BB. 1 way to save epoxy is to cut unwanted sprue into small pieces, pack them into the cavity and secure them down with some glue over it, then fill up with epoxy.

Apart from that, the tip of the lance was sharpened and cavity filled as well...

That'll be all for now! Comments welcome as usual and take care! ]]> http://plamo.outthere.info/forum/showthread.php?tid=6211 Thu, 02 Jul 2009 01:45:29 +0800 http://plamo.outthere.info/forum/showthread.php?tid=6211
The boxart is quite chio (nice):


In-box reviews of this kit is available here and here. Spue shots are included.

I bought it because I wanted to do a simple aircraft (says the review) with PE, and since this kit got PE instrument panels and seat belts, it is right up my alley.

I would be doing the aircraft deplicted in the boxart and update once I get the cockpit done up..

Wish me luck
===================
Peter.]]>
The boxart is quite chio (nice):


In-box reviews of this kit is available here and here. Spue shots are included.

I bought it because I wanted to do a simple aircraft (says the review) with PE, and since this kit got PE instrument panels and seat belts, it is right up my alley.

I would be doing the aircraft deplicted in the boxart and update once I get the cockpit done up..

Wish me luck
===================
Peter.]]> http://plamo.outthere.info/forum/showthread.php?tid=6209 Wed, 01 Jul 2009 21:33:34 +0800 http://plamo.outthere.info/forum/showthread.php?tid=6209
-Dull grey was used instead of white
-A slightly darker grey was used for the patterns
-Can't really see from the photos, but some of the red parts have a lighter red pattern painted on them. This was done intentionally as I did not want them to be so clearly seen.
-Mahogany was used on the handles and scabbard for a more "wooden look"
-The blade was painted using Gaia Ex-silver (based coat was Ex-black). Unfortunately not the outcome that I wanted
-Silver drybrushing was applied on the black and red parts. (can't really see them from the photos)
-Did the panel linings for some, not all of the parts.
-Sharpen the V fin
-Finally started painting the "eyes" of the Gundam (should have started a long time ago.


One major miss point for this project, was the fact that I did not remove the seamlines nor glue them!!! (the truth, I was a bit lazy on this part) I got to work on this....

All said and done, I personally feel that this is one of the better gundams, if not the best that I have done.

One last thing, C&C are greatly appreciated

Finally words: Need to built more Gundams!!!
















]]>
-Dull grey was used instead of white
-A slightly darker grey was used for the patterns
-Can't really see from the photos, but some of the red parts have a lighter red pattern painted on them. This was done intentionally as I did not want them to be so clearly seen.
-Mahogany was used on the handles and scabbard for a more "wooden look"
-The blade was painted using Gaia Ex-silver (based coat was Ex-black). Unfortunately not the outcome that I wanted
-Silver drybrushing was applied on the black and red parts. (can't really see them from the photos)
-Did the panel linings for some, not all of the parts.
-Sharpen the V fin
-Finally started painting the "eyes" of the Gundam (should have started a long time ago.


One major miss point for this project, was the fact that I did not remove the seamlines nor glue them!!! (the truth, I was a bit lazy on this part) I got to work on this....

All said and done, I personally feel that this is one of the better gundams, if not the best that I have done.

One last thing, C&C are greatly appreciated

Finally words: Need to built more Gundams!!!
















]]> http://plamo.outthere.info/forum/showthread.php?tid=6208 Wed, 01 Jul 2009 16:49:29 +0800 http://plamo.outthere.info/forum/showthread.php?tid=6208 Found this instead.

http://www.freewebs.com/steamnoir/]]> Found this instead.

http://www.freewebs.com/steamnoir/]]> http://plamo.outthere.info/forum/showthread.php?tid=6207 Wed, 01 Jul 2009 14:57:15 +0800 http://plamo.outthere.info/forum/showthread.php?tid=6207
actually start built this kit since 2 months ago

lets get started

i will try to make like this one


snap fit



i do some scratch build on the neo zeon logo



and then i add some plaplate on the chest and panelline on skirt



i'm also adding some plaplate on back skirt


sone chest panelline :D

---

feet


final step primer



painting


i use tamiya spray for painting but i extract the paint from the bottle i'm using airbrush




i still need to apply decal and some lining

thanks for viewing]]>
actually start built this kit since 2 months ago

lets get started

i will try to make like this one


snap fit



i do some scratch build on the neo zeon logo



and then i add some plaplate on the chest and panelline on skirt



i'm also adding some plaplate on back skirt


sone chest panelline :D

---

feet


final step primer



painting


i use tamiya spray for painting but i extract the paint from the bottle i'm using airbrush




i still need to apply decal and some lining

thanks for viewing]]> http://plamo.outthere.info/forum/showthread.php?tid=6206 Wed, 01 Jul 2009 01:41:57 +0800 http://plamo.outthere.info/forum/showthread.php?tid=6206
This is another simple build of an HGUC Zaku I kit with little modifications (monoeye, right shoulder armor, and misc. prepaint mods). This is a break from building Master Grades for the most part of 2009. Didn't even bothered to flat coat the weapons as I already got lazy and it looks good for me anyway Bandai Gundam Decals were used (they're really thick IMHO). Painted with gunze and gaia paints.





Comments and suggestions are welcome. Thanks for visiting!]]>
This is another simple build of an HGUC Zaku I kit with little modifications (monoeye, right shoulder armor, and misc. prepaint mods). This is a break from building Master Grades for the most part of 2009. Didn't even bothered to flat coat the weapons as I already got lazy and it looks good for me anyway Bandai Gundam Decals were used (they're really thick IMHO). Painted with gunze and gaia paints.





Comments and suggestions are welcome. Thanks for visiting!]]> http://plamo.outthere.info/forum/showthread.php?tid=6205 Tue, 30 Jun 2009 22:27:05 +0800 http://plamo.outthere.info/forum/showthread.php?tid=6205

For those who didn't really need the extra $$ please donate to Charmaine for a good cause.

http://plamo.outthere.info/forum/showthr...p?tid=6100]]>

For those who didn't really need the extra $$ please donate to Charmaine for a good cause.

http://plamo.outthere.info/forum/showthr...p?tid=6100]]> http://plamo.outthere.info/forum/showthread.php?tid=6204 Tue, 30 Jun 2009 21:16:40 +0800 http://plamo.outthere.info/forum/showthread.php?tid=6204
I've chosen to do the Palace Athene, codenamed The Ice Queen, first. She's part of a multi-mecha thematic project I'm working on.



The name alone already suggests the color scheme. She'll be predominantly white, with light blue accents, and would basically be my first "heavily modified" kit. I'll be painting it with my trademark multitone process (though I'm still wondering if the color shift would work with just the usual paints I use). At any rate, I'm experimenting on new techniques for it.

The weapons back pack would have to go, replaced by something else. The missiles I shall use for another build, and the arm rifle will be modified. I'll custom build hands for it, since the stock hands are UGLY for an HGUC kit. I wish Bandai would just keep things consistent, and keep the quality of the kits across the board.

]]>
I've chosen to do the Palace Athene, codenamed The Ice Queen, first. She's part of a multi-mecha thematic project I'm working on.



The name alone already suggests the color scheme. She'll be predominantly white, with light blue accents, and would basically be my first "heavily modified" kit. I'll be painting it with my trademark multitone process (though I'm still wondering if the color shift would work with just the usual paints I use). At any rate, I'm experimenting on new techniques for it.

The weapons back pack would have to go, replaced by something else. The missiles I shall use for another build, and the arm rifle will be modified. I'll custom build hands for it, since the stock hands are UGLY for an HGUC kit. I wish Bandai would just keep things consistent, and keep the quality of the kits across the board.

]]> http://plamo.outthere.info/forum/showthread.php?tid=6203 Tue, 30 Jun 2009 20:47:50 +0800 http://plamo.outthere.info/forum/showthread.php?tid=6203
We just finished the Miyazaki's Pig Tank, AKUYAKU #1.
The model is built by me, finished by John Tham (JT Models) and groundwork/ base by Julian Yap.

This is a very fun project.
The quality of the kit(Tasca) is SUPERB
The only negative side of this kit is the piggies.
There is a lot of mould scratches on the piggies which needed to be filled up for better finishing. The painting of the piggies is very siong too

So here's the images,


]]>
We just finished the Miyazaki's Pig Tank, AKUYAKU #1.
The model is built by me, finished by John Tham (JT Models) and groundwork/ base by Julian Yap.

This is a very fun project.
The quality of the kit(Tasca) is SUPERB
The only negative side of this kit is the piggies.
There is a lot of mould scratches on the piggies which needed to be filled up for better finishing. The painting of the piggies is very siong too

So here's the images,


]]> http://plamo.outthere.info/forum/showthread.php?tid=6202 Tue, 30 Jun 2009 18:44:55 +0800 http://plamo.outthere.info/forum/showthread.php?tid=6202
Still using handbrush to paint gunpla
Still doing lot of mistakes here and there
Comments and critics are very appreciated







]]>
Still using handbrush to paint gunpla
Still doing lot of mistakes here and there
Comments and critics are very appreciated







]]> http://plamo.outthere.info/forum/showthread.php?tid=6201 Tue, 30 Jun 2009 16:07:00 +0800 http://plamo.outthere.info/forum/showthread.php?tid=6201
Though I tried to be as accurate as possible, I realised I used the wrong smoke dischargers only after everything was complete =

Anyway, the model's from Hobbyboss and its mostly out of the box with the exception of the tow cable made by twisting 5 strands of copper wire and the L44 barrel which is a left over from Tamiya's 2A6 (it came together with the kit). Tamiya's L44 barrel is a better representation of the one used by the Leopards in Singapore.

The plate numbers were made using Archer decals - WW2 British letters and numbers.

-----------------------------------------------------------

Generally, it was a nice kit to work with though there were some fitting problems. I had to use Superglue to secure the top and bottom hull togeteher and also the side skirts to the hull. The side mirrors were bent to position and secured to the body.

In order to fit the barrel, I had to enlarge the part where the barrel is fixed to the turret

I did try to make an attempt to replicate the green on Singapore's tanks but it wasn't successful. Ended up using Tamiya's dark green instead. This's also the 1st time I tried to use shading and it turned out nicely though it doesn't really show that much in the photos.

As for the weathering (though I don't think its actually weathering) is done by spraying light mists of dark yellow + flat earth + flat flesh till I get the desired effect i.e. a run through the field for outfield training. (By the way... I tried my best to replicate the dust and mud in Singapore)





http://www.track-link.net/gallery/6676

http://www.track-link.net/gallery/6676_2
[mod edit] image links fixed]]>
Though I tried to be as accurate as possible, I realised I used the wrong smoke dischargers only after everything was complete =

Anyway, the model's from Hobbyboss and its mostly out of the box with the exception of the tow cable made by twisting 5 strands of copper wire and the L44 barrel which is a left over from Tamiya's 2A6 (it came together with the kit). Tamiya's L44 barrel is a better representation of the one used by the Leopards in Singapore.

The plate numbers were made using Archer decals - WW2 British letters and numbers.

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Generally, it was a nice kit to work with though there were some fitting problems. I had to use Superglue to secure the top and bottom hull togeteher and also the side skirts to the hull. The side mirrors were bent to position and secured to the body.

In order to fit the barrel, I had to enlarge the part where the barrel is fixed to the turret

I did try to make an attempt to replicate the green on Singapore's tanks but it wasn't successful. Ended up using Tamiya's dark green instead. This's also the 1st time I tried to use shading and it turned out nicely though it doesn't really show that much in the photos.

As for the weathering (though I don't think its actually weathering) is done by spraying light mists of dark yellow + flat earth + flat flesh till I get the desired effect i.e. a run through the field for outfield training. (By the way... I tried my best to replicate the dust and mud in Singapore)





http://www.track-link.net/gallery/6676

http://www.track-link.net/gallery/6676_2
[mod edit] image links fixed]]> http://plamo.outthere.info/forum/showthread.php?tid=6200 Tue, 30 Jun 2009 09:50:57 +0800 http://plamo.outthere.info/forum/showthread.php?tid=6200 At Blizzard, it's free swag, valet parking and playing games all day.

^^^ is just about the what seems like the best workplace I've ever read. I'm pretty sure such a place does not exist in SG? Or does it?

Do you have a nice work environment? Tell us your perks? Make us envy?

================================================

I'll start on my ex-co. Used to do tools for gaming related industry. The office environment is very casual and open. We have many balls (soccer, tennis, large exercise types) lying around and we throw them around sometimes.

Oh and we have a TV and X360 hooked on and we can play if/when we are free. But then, we weren't that free most of the time...

Overall, I think it's a nice place. Sadly, no perks of any sorts like Blizzard...]]> At Blizzard, it's free swag, valet parking and playing games all day.

^^^ is just about the what seems like the best workplace I've ever read. I'm pretty sure such a place does not exist in SG? Or does it?

Do you have a nice work environment? Tell us your perks? Make us envy?

================================================

I'll start on my ex-co. Used to do tools for gaming related industry. The office environment is very casual and open. We have many balls (soccer, tennis, large exercise types) lying around and we throw them around sometimes.

Oh and we have a TV and X360 hooked on and we can play if/when we are free. But then, we weren't that free most of the time...

Overall, I think it's a nice place. Sadly, no perks of any sorts like Blizzard...]]> http://plamo.outthere.info/forum/showthread.php?tid=6197 Tue, 30 Jun 2009 02:48:18 +0800 http://plamo.outthere.info/forum/showthread.php?tid=6197




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]]> http://plamo.outthere.info/forum/showthread.php?tid=6195 Mon, 29 Jun 2009 15:16:52 +0800 http://plamo.outthere.info/forum/showthread.php?tid=6195 1: hang her from the ceiling - I don't want to do that, a display stand looks more professional
2: buy a display stand - where?
3: DIY - how do I fix the plane on the stand? My idea would be to stick the pole into the bomb bay with a huge amount of blue tack. The problem is that bombs are "falling" from her belly, hung on a thin chord which might interfere with the "pole-in-the-bomb-bay" plan. Any other suggestions?

Thanks in advance!]]> 1: hang her from the ceiling - I don't want to do that, a display stand looks more professional
2: buy a display stand - where?
3: DIY - how do I fix the plane on the stand? My idea would be to stick the pole into the bomb bay with a huge amount of blue tack. The problem is that bombs are "falling" from her belly, hung on a thin chord which might interfere with the "pole-in-the-bomb-bay" plan. Any other suggestions?

Thanks in advance!]]> http://plamo.outthere.info/forum/showthread.php?tid=6192 Mon, 29 Jun 2009 00:49:00 +0800 http://plamo.outthere.info/forum/showthread.php?tid=6192
not sure if this is the right place to post, mods do move this thread if not suitable

Some new pics i tried with my old exia, bec i kinda find my old set of pics over exposed... it's not supposed to be metallic blue anyway heres the new pics




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not sure if this is the right place to post, mods do move this thread if not suitable

Some new pics i tried with my old exia, bec i kinda find my old set of pics over exposed... it's not supposed to be metallic blue anyway heres the new pics




]]>