PLAMO: Re-WiredWolf - Plastic Modelling, Share & Learn

This is gonna be my entry. Got this kit couple of months ago and just nice to enter it in this competition.

This is my first ever MG kit so I'm not too sure how well I'll cope. Guess we'll just wait a see.

I choose to enter this competition as a way to pressure myself to build the kit the best I can.

This is the kit that I'm gonna build.


Spent last Saturday snap fitting the kit. Here are the pics.




More to come when I have time to update. Till then, happy modeling.

this is a good kit(except for the hand), GAMBATEH!!!

Update 18/1/2007:

There are quite a lot of seam lines on this kit.



The bazooka.


I applied loads of plastic cement of both the rifle and bazooka parts and pressed them together until the cement oozes out of the joining area

After the glue dried, I first file the part with a jewel file.


Then I sand it to smooth using 1000 grid sand paper.


The beam rifle.
Before.


After.

Update 18/1/2007:

The hand.
There were quite a lots of mold marks/lines on the hands.


First use a hobby knife to scrape off the mold lines from the surface.


In the process of scraping off mold lines, I scraped off the finger panel lines (groves between parts of finger) as well. I use a hobby knife to careful re-scribe the finger panel lines.


This is how the final product looks like.


The whole WIP can be seen at my blog:
MG Gundam RX78 CA WIP

Hey, the model look exactly the same as my rx-78-2 version 1.0! But u got an extra weapon! The spiky ball!!

And yeah, the seam line were nasty...


Keep up the good work!

The RX-78-2 CA and ver 1.0 share the same upper torso but the legs are completely new.

The head.
To facility easy painting of the head and face, I modded the way to assemble the face and head camera. I hope this is not considered a mod to the kit and my Gundam will not be disqualified. First cut out off the head camera and the attaching piece from the main piece.


Glue part A to the original place where it was supposed to be as if it was not cut off.


With part A in place, part B can be easily glue into place from the front once painting of the head is completed.


To be able to insert the face after the head had been put together, first cut an opening at the part where the face was suppose to be inserted.


Now, once the painting is completed, the face can be slide into the opening from underneath the head.


A big seam line on the head that needed putty to fix.

The backpack.
There were quite a lot of mold lines on the backpack. Just get rid of them like how to get rid of those on the hands.


After removing the mold lines.


Internal parts.
All the internal parts ready to be painted.


Masking using paper. The reason I use paper was because the parts to be masked were just painted and not fully cured yet. If I use masking tape, I risk having the paint lifted off when removing the masking tape.



Internal parts all painted with burn iron colour.


The frame for the leg.

There was an issue with parts fitting of the leg amours. The parts seem to be too big and protruded to the sides. See the circled area in the picture below.


I fixed this by first file the protruding area with a jewel file (item 1). Then I used 600 grid sandpaper (item 2) to sand it back to shape. Lastly I used 1000 grid sandpaper (item 3) to sand the surface to smooth.


And this is the final result.

There weren’t too many seam lines with this kit. There was however some long and nasty seam lines on the arms.


After gluing the parts together, I used the jewel file and sandpapers as mentioned above to file and sand off the seam lines.


However, as the picture above shown, the original panel line was also sanded off in the process of removing the seam line. To fix this, simple re-script it.